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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled high among these culinary titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.